The mystical North Sikkim in monsoon

North district of Sikkim is the largest of all the four districts of Sikkim (East, West, North and South) with mountainous landscape, steep valleys covered with dense forests, with a vast treasure of alpine beauty. Numerous waterfalls along the main road makes the journey extremely thrilling. And the pinnacle point of North Sikkim is definitely the Gurudongmar Lake, one of the highest altitude natural lakes of the world. Monsoon here starts at May till September with its full form in July. Because of devastating landslides and poor condition of North Sikkim highway 310 A, definitely monsoon time is not advisable to visit North Sikkim by anyone. Me and my husband just took a leap of faith to face the challenges to visit rain- soaked North Sikkim in July 2018 and that experience can be described as "the ethereal beauty that has to be seen to be believed".

Our journey started from Kolkata and after reaching Bagdogra airport we took a private cab to Gangtok. We felt pretty lucky to hear that the road was closed the previous day because of massive landslides and opened that day morning only. Incredible greenery everywhere and mist over Teesta flowing along our way made the journey exquisite.

When we reached Gangtok after 5 hours drive it was raining heavily. With very few tourists and no buzz in the town, the rain pitter pattered, breaking the silence and made a perfect rainy evening. Locked inside our hotel room and unable to do any leisure shopping in MG road that day, we were reminiscing our unforgettable mystic journey as if we entered 'the Avatar land'.

Next day after early breakfast, with lots of expectations in mind, we started from Gangtok to Lachung via Mangan, the district headquarter of North Sikkim District.

The charm of monsoon became evident when exuberant gorgeous waterfalls crossed the road adding thrill to the journey. We finally entered the land of mesmerising beauty with lushes of greenery, heaven on earth....the realms of North Sikkim

The green valleys and mountains playing hide and seek through the monsoon cloud, with Teesta flowing down between the valleys and peeping at us, with few villages over the valley occasionally becoming visible through thick mist, the journey is no less than a journey to paradise. The road was becoming scarier as we were climbing up the mountain and no other tourist cab was visible near us, which was even more scarier. Suddenly our car stopped after entering Mangan jurisdiction. We saw few other cabs lining up on the N. Sikkim highway. Massive landslides occurred at night and had blocked the highway before Chungthang. This is very common in monsoon. Road clearing process was going on. With no diversions, no alternative roads, we could do nothing but to wait till road re-opens. With lots of time in hand now, we started walking and after taking a turn, what awaited us was a breathtaking scene of a mysterious suspension bridge in dense fog. Decorated with colourful flags this bridge occupies a special space in our memory.

After a near two hours wait, the road was cleared and we again started and reached Chungthang. On way the stupendous Naga Falls with its deep roar spoke of its grandiosity. Monsoon bring vigour to every Falls. The Chungthang Hydroelectric plant was a treat to watch from highway as we were finally entering Lachung, following the Lachung river.

On third day we packed breakfast and started for Gurudongmar at 6am. Usually people prefer to stay at Lachen to see Gurudongmar. But we preferred Lachung although it takes 1 hour to one and half hour extra drive through Lachen. Since hotel availability and options were better in Lachung. Gurudongmar lake is situated at 17800 feet high altitude. Acetazolamide tablet should be taken from beforehand at least 2 days before for acclimatization. Heavy woolens should be worn in 3-4 layers. Smoking, drinking, red meat consumption should be avoided. Again this was another memorable journey.

As we climb up the mountain road towards Gurudongmar, gradually landscape changes from lush green steep valleys and mountains with tall trees to small trees and bushes and finally entering a barren land. Cold increases several folds. Reaching Thangu, there will be check of proper permits for visiting Gurudongmar and is the point of doing breakfast with delicious maggi and egg toast. As the car moves forward through the stony gravel road, and takes the final right turn, the spectacular snow clapped mountains welcome us. We have left behind the thick monsoon cloud and climbed above it to enter a zone which practically faces no rainfall. The view of the lake is overwhelming, the pristine blue colour of the lake along with its varied shades is a real treat to the eyes. Its a very holy place for Hindus, Buddhist and Sikhs and many believe it has magical power. Colourful flags makes it more enchanting and a 'wish lake' for visitors. It is chilling cold, extremely windy, with low oxygen. Slow movements and deep breathing can save ourselves from breathlessness. Afternoon winds are extremely harsh and nobody are allowed to stay after 1 pm. Apart from Indian army, there is no human habitation here. Indian army are very helpful and prompt in giving assistance to sick visitors by providing emergency management with oxygen and medicines. We stayed for half an hour. Deeply touched by its heavenly beauty, I was lost somewhere completely. With memories to be cherished lifelong, we returned through the beautiful terrain to Lachung in our hotel, after having lunch in Chungthang.

Lachung is a small beautiful village and after bidding goodbye, we headed for our next destination, Yumthang valley on the fourth day of our trip.

The road condition was very poor with repeated landslides and heavy rainfall. But the road is picturesque. Although monsoon means end of blooming season of Rhododendrons, still the valley was beautiful with greenery and few rhododendrons. It was very cold, windy day. We had already lost enthusiasm to reach zero point after a short trek, rather we preferred to sit beside the flowing stream to have hot maggie and tea here again prepared by the locals. Very few rhododendrons were still blooming on the valley as we moved further upward.

After visiting Yumthamg, we returned back to Gangtok on that same day. Next day (5th day) we left for Bagdogra airport and then flight to Kolkata.

Throughout our trip rain created a magical beauty. Be it mist over Teesta river, cloud kissing the mountain top, green lushes valley, magnificent waterfalls, roaring streams, greenery and wild flowers all together was a dream tour with wonderful memories.