The fascinating tale of Chandrabhaga along with our journey to Chandra tal and Suraj tal and our soulful connection to Tandi
- Bipasa Chakraborty
- May 13
- 12 min read
Updated: May 13
Fascinating tale of Chandrabhaga and signifance of Tandi: The confluence of Chandra river and Bhaga river of Himachal makes Chandrabhaga or Chenab river formed at Tandi in Lahaul. Chenab flows through Himachal, enters Punjab and finally meet Satluj, which further joins the Indus river in Pakistan Punjab.
Folklore says a beautiful celestial love story between Chandra, daughter of Moon God and Bhaga, son of Sun God, who were forbidden from marrying. So they decided to marry on Earth, they chose two places to descend. Chandra landed at Chandratal in Spiti creating this beautiful Chandra Tal lake and Bhaga at Suraj Tal at Lahaul. Chandra followed Chandra river (originating near Chandratal from glaciers of Baralacha la) and Bhaga followed Bhaga river (originating from Surajtal near Baralacha la) and they both meet at Tandi downstream which is the confluence the Sangam for their celestial union. This formed the sacred river Chandrabhaga at Tandi. So,Tandi is a holy place and the water here is believed to wash away all the sins and offer salvation. This Sangam Tandi's holiness is also linked to other Hindu mythology as this is the place where Draupadi, wife of the Pandavas have died and left her body ('Tan Dehi') during her journey to heaven ie Mahaprasthanam according to local mythology here and had her last rites performed here. So many performs their last rite Asthi Visarjan at Tandi for salvation. From 'Tan Dehi' evolved the name Tandi for this consecrated place. Also believed that Vashishtha Muni, who meditated near hot springs in Manali in Vashishtha Muni temple and ashram, was cremated at Tandi adding high spirituality. This place is also sacred for Tibetan Buddhism blending both the cultures and Lahuli people here follow combination of Buddhism and Hinduism serving a mixed spiritual meeting point.
Fascinated by this tale of Chandrabhaga we explored Chandra tal, Suraj tal and Tandi to explore this myth and find the symbolic reality. We visited this sacred Tandi first time in 2009 while travelling from Rohtang pass to Keylong through a rough terrain. Atal tunnel was not there then. Reaching Tandi we were mesmerized by the beautiful confluence and felt a strong connection with this place immediately.
We again visited Tandi in 2023 during our Lahaul-Spiti trip completing the Tribal circuit of Himachal. In this trip, we first visited Chandra Tal, myth says the lake was created by Chandra where she started her journey for her celestial union with Bhaga and then we visited Suraj Tal where Bhaga started his journey and our journey also ended in Tandi where they united. So this time we could perceive this places greatness with even more magical spell.
So lets start our Journey tale from Chandratal: We first completed our Kaza trip. Then next day we started from Kaza at a very early morning around 5am. Our plan was to visit Kunzum pass, then Chandratal lake and by taking the national highway 505 via Batal, chota dhara, Chhatru to Gramphu to Tandi will reach Keylong on the same day and we had plans for Baralacha la the following day. After reaching Losar around 7am we stopped to have some tea and our packed breakfast and soon got the worst news that due to massive avalanche that occurred last night the whole road from Kaza to Manali has been closed. This sort of road block due to landslide is very common in Lahaul-Spiti specially between Batal and Gramphu road. There was total chaos on road and most of the cars cancelled their trip and were returning back. There was news that road will be closed for 3 consecutive days for repair work as damage was huge which means our remaining trip will be completely ruined. We were in shock and in stage of disbelief and denial and still hoping that we will make it. So, we stopped our driver from turning back our car. Sudipta walked till the checkpost of Losar to hear from horses mouth. We came to know that avalanche was between Batal and Gramphu which means we can still make it to Chandratal lake and return back to Kaza same day. Our driver was totally unprepared for taking this risk as no cars were moving further and we were adamant that we will take this risk. Police allowed us upto Chandratal after entry of our names. We started again with finger crossed. Our was the only car moving through the mighty Himalayas. No cars were seen before or after us and we were the only persons who had surrendered ourselves completely in the ultimate vastness. Everything seemed so tiny in front of this vastness. This awfully beautiful trip surprised us in every bends with nature’s pure beauty.
We reached Kunzum pass around 9am and were mesmerized by the beauty of the place. At Kunzum Mata temple 2 more cars arrived with passengers and we were so happy seeing them. We offered our prayers to Kunzum Mata and placed a coin in Her feet which is a ritual that is followed to seek blessings of Kunzum Mata for one’s safe journey. I was lost in the beauty of both mother Goddess and mother nature, wanted to see more and more to my heart’s content, but our driver called us and said we should leave immediately as other 2 cars have already left.
There was a diversion road from NH 505, 8 kms after crossing Kunzum pass and 3 km before Batal which leads to road to Chandratal. On this road we saw one more car joining us to the road to Chandratal. This road is 13 km long unmetalled road and last 1 km is not a motorable one. The road to Chandratal is filled with loose stones and is narrow with several hairpin bends. Throughout the road, Chandra river will accompany with her gorgeous beauty flowing through the valley.
After parking we started walking around 11:30 am. We hiked 1 km path at 14100 ft altitude, which was an unforgettable experience. We walked through green meadows with occasional wild flowers, which were present amidst cold desert of Spiti, surrounded by south western Himalayas on all sides, and when we could first glance the spectacular Chandratal, moon shaped lake and thin Chandra river coming out from it , it was a moment permanently captured in our soul and our heart was filled with ecstacy. We crossed muddy paths, stony paths, grassy paths and crossed thin Chandra river that was flowing beside us to finally reach the blue Chandratal lake which was an ethereal experience. Chilling wind creating ripples in the crystal clear blue water of Chandratal was the only sound present and sometimes some summer birds chirping from a distance was the only companion.
There were very few visitors on that day, not even 5 cars reached because of unpredictable road conditions and we were lucky enough to finally make it after overcoming many hurdles since morning. Fortune favors the brave. There was only us and we stayed there for 20 minutes, spending some quiet lonesome solitary moments lost in Chandratal and took with us tons of memories that can be cherished lifelong. That day was our wedding Anniversary. And this trip was in our bucket list since 2009 and our dream came true in 2023. Our driver Daler ji also visited the holy Chandratal for the first time like us and realized it was worth taking all the risk since morning.
Chandratal is high altitude trekkers paradise. One can trek from Kunzum pass or from Batal to experience natures true beauty. Road to Chandratal opens around 1st week of June to early October, remaining time the road remains closed due to heavy snowfall, avalanches, landslides. It is a holy lake for both Hindus and Buddhists. No one is allowed to swim in this lake. Its prohibited, its dangerous and life threatening if one attempts to swim. Folklore says fairies come at night at Chandratal. Also this is where Lord Indra took Yudhishthir to heaven in their Mahaprasthanam yatra, journey to heaven according to local mythology of HP.
After returning to the parking area we started to plan our return journey. 3 km from the lake there are arrangements for accommodation in tents and camps. We heard that the avalanche has been removed and road to Gramphu has been opened only for that day. Police was clearing all trapped vehicles on road and then from next day the whole road from Kaza to Gramphu will be closed completely for 3 consecutive days for repair work. So in tremendous joy and hope we immediately started for our journey towards Kelong ie Lahaul around 1:30 pm. We moved along the Chandra river, reached Batal and went to the famous Chacha Chachi dhaba - 'Chandra Dhaba'.
At Batal we stopped for lunch as we were starving to death. We went to Chacha Chachi’s Chandra Dhaba serving all travellers for 50 years in this hostile cold desert yet they are the most warm hearted persons one would ever meet. I have read so many heart-warming stories of Chacha Chachi, rescuing travellers, giving food and shelter in their dhaba, as this road is the most unpredictable road of Lahaul-Spiti with no network signal, no petrol pumps, no repair shops, no hotels but deadly roads, hostile weather and nature’s harshest extremities. So they are the saviors of Batal. Chacha is the most humble and most witty person, he will definitely win your heart in no time and make you laugh loud. I even clicked a photo with Chacha as I want to remember him as real life heroes. After having Maggie, tea & collecting few snacks for emergency, we started for our remaining journey with the most deadliest road on earth. An experience of lifetime.
Bumpy road will be an understatement to describe this portion of road from Batal to Gramphu. Boulder-y should be the term to describe this. Big sized boulders, rocks, somewhere there is no road, driver has to make out a road on assumption and proceed forward. Sometimes we had to return back to find a new alternative path to move forward. Through the snow capped mountains and roads wrapped with iced walls on their sides and Chandra flowing throughout the journey, we moved forward very slowly, as any rash drive can take your life.
We crossed Chota dhara, and after crossing Chhatru came the deadly waterfalls which can sweep away any small car, flowing massively over the road and every vehicle had to cross this nala (in local language) before getting the safe passage to Keylong or Manali. I was literally praying to Shree Jagannath for our safe passage over this fierce nala with boulders, rocks falling on road, with big ditches enough to damage the chassis of big cars. Finally few minutes after crossing the nala and crossing Gramphu we saw safer asphalt road.
Road from Batal to Gramphu is the most thrilling road of this trip. Totally adventurous, one of the deadliest roads in the world with most beautiful landscape around it. Though new roads and tunnels inside mountains are being planned as future endeavor but for mad travellers like us, we love this spine shivering thrills more than a comfortable asphalt road. That is why when we visited Keylong this time again after 14 years, we were surprised to see the exceptionally good condition of the road in Keylong. When we visited Keylong in 2009 the rugged road over which streams and waterfalls were flowing over, boulders and stones and dirt and dusts amidst raw barren nature and mighty Himalayas, made that trip most memorable. Don’t know whether we should be happy that by constructing fine roads to the remotest parts, our country is developing indeed and helping local people as they too deserve good roads, or we should be sad as we were missing this place’s wilderness at her fullest and more importantly so much construction may be disturbing mother natures stability.
We reached Keylong in evening around 8pm after a very hectic yet most memorable journey of lifetime. We had a very peaceful comfortable sleep that night at Hotel Chandrabhaga of HPTDC after much adrenaline rush throughout the day.
Our next journey to Suraj Tal and Baralacha la: Next day from Keylong we started for Suraj Tal and Baralacha la (altitude 16,040 feet). From Keylong we crossed Jispa, a quaint village in Lahaul, now its famous for river camping beside the Bhaga river which is flowing through the valley. After crossing Jispa we crossed the longest bridge of Himachal Pradesh, Darcha bridge, built over Bhaga river. Crossing the bridge, comes the Darcha checkpost and we proceeded upwards after registering our names. Darcha is the last point where we got mobile network and this warning is given to every travellers crossing Darcha by the army police. There were shacks at Darcha which provide food for travellers, bedding blankets for night halt for bikers. From here we again entered into the Himalayas. We realized that the snow capped mountains that we were seeing so far, is now where we are standing. Nature will surprise you here in every bends.
We passed Deepak tal, and proceeded upward and planned to see this lake while returning. From above, Deepaktal was appearing deep blue in colour. We reached Zingzing Bar, halted to have some good coffee and snacks in chilling wind on a bright sunny day. They have unbelievable open-air eco-toilets surrounded by tins with open tops.We proceeded forward towards Suraj tal and Baralacha la pass. Road from Zingzingbar was unbelievable. We were inside the Himalayas and this highway has been build through the snow-capped Himalayan mountains connecting Manali to Leh, which remains open throughout the year. Salute to the hard work of our Indian army. Road was unbelievably beautiful with both sides covered with ice upto 7-8 feet high.
Finally we saw the first glimpse of Surajtal - the origin of Bhaga river, almost covered with white ice, which has started melting with turquoise water in between. Surrounding the Surajtal (16040 ft) is the Himalayas shinning white with snow. It is so pure and so heavenly. I started believing the story of Chandra and Bhaga and their celestial love and why they chose these two places. After visiting Surajtal and Baralachala we started returning back. Sunglasses are mandatory here or retina can get damaged by excessive glare due to the shiny white snow sparkling everywhere. We not only clicked 1000 photos but also explored the place on our own. It was sunny and windy and we walked over the pure white, snowy slippery mountains. We had no spikes around our shoes but we had only trekking sticks to support. Yet we jumped, we slipped, we fell, but did not stop as this opportunity might never come again – to walk through and into the Himalayas.
Next we stopped at Deepaktal, altitude 12300 ft, which now appeared green instead of blue. We realized the lake is so crystal clear, it is taking the colour of its surrounding’s reflection. So from above, the blue sky is making the lake blue and from the ground the green mountains surrounding the lake is reflecting its colour. We can see every stones and pebbles lying below the lake. It is a holy lake. It was windy and little cloudy when we reached.
After having our lunch with Masala Maggie and tea at Darcha, we returned to our hotel Chandrabhaga in Keylong.
Tandi- celestial union and forming Chandrabhaga: Next morning we checked out from hotel Chandrabhaga to see Chandrabhaga at Tandi. Here we enjoyed the celestial union, the confluence of Chandrabhaga, fell a deep connection. This completed our exploration of the full circle of the fascinating traditional myth of Himachal. One thing we noticed during our journey to Tandi through Keylong that the terrain has changed a lot. Keylong was strikingly barren, rocky in 2009 but after 14 years in 2023, Keylong had more greeneries, trees have grown in the mountains, distinct even from the distant mountains. Though Tandi appeared same. Then after spending some time, we went to Sissu at Atal Café, enjoyed Sissu lake and via Atal tunnel returned safely to Manali. We were excited to visit Atal tunnel for first time.
Next year 2024, we again visited Tandi while going to Jispa during our Zanskar tour. Tandi called us again and again and everytime we feel a deep rooted connection with this place and with Chandrabhaga. Himachal is indeed fascinating in all respect.
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